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VISITORS ONLINE GUIDE TO THE
CITY OF PUEBLA, MEXICO

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Puebla, Mexico.

Historic District Walking Tour with addresses and descriptions of more than two dozen downtown sites.

Web Links for access to daily news, weather reports, more on tourism and transportation, plus links to government, newspaper, television, and university sites.


General Information. Pronounced PWEH-BLAH. Located in the Puebla Valley, 129 km (80 miles) southeast of Mexico City. Altitude: 2,149 m. (7,091 ft.). Population in 2000: 1,346,000. It is the capital of the state of Puebla and one of Mexico's oldest Spanish cities, founded in 1531. Legend has it that a band of angels appeared to Bishop Julian Garcés, one of the founders, pointing out where to situate the new city. Hence the nickname Angelopolis (City of Angels). Locals are called poblanos.
Puebla is renown for its distinctive colonial architecture, savory cuisine, Talavera ceramics, onyx crafts, and textile industry. The indigenous language of the region, Náhuatl, is still spoken in some rural areas of the Puebla Valley. Mexican troops defeated French invaders here on May 5, 1862, at the Forts of Loreto and Guadalupe. The Mexican Revolution began in Puebla as well, on November 18, 1910, when federal soldiers and police attacked the home of the Serdán family. In 1987, UNESCO designated Puebla a World Heritage City. A serious earthquake on June 15, 1999, damaged many notable buildings, but restoration efforts began almost immediately. Virtually all the principal historic sites reopened by the summer of 2001.
Among the major archeological sites in the region are: Texcal Cave near Lake Valsequillo, first occupied by humans around B.C. 7,000; the Tenapa Pyramid in Cholula (circa B.C. 400-A.D. 200), whose base height of 1,315 ft. ranks it among the largest precolumbian structures in the Americas; and, in the neighboring state of Tlaxcala, the polychrome murals at the fortress of Cacaxtla (circa A.D. 600-1100). Four volcanoes, the highest peaks in Mexico, are visible from the city: Popocatépetl (17,883 ft.), Iztaccíhuatl (17,338 ft.), La Malinche (14,632 ft.), and Citlaltépetl (18,855 ft.), also known as the Pico de Orizaba. Popocatépetl is an active volcano and periodically spouts water and ash. Talavera-tile facade (detail, 1743-1767), Church of San Francisco, Puebla, Mexico.
Climate, Health Precautions. Sunny days (70-80o F, or 21.1 -26.6o C) and chilly nights (40-50o F, or 4.4-10o C) mean you'll need layers of clothing and warm pajamas. There is almost no precipitation from November through March. Afternoons are rainy from April through October. Avoid consuming tap water, ice cubes, and foods sold by street vendors, especially water-based desserts (gelatins, ice cream, sno-cones, popsicles). Use bottled water, even for brushing your teeth, and ask for beverages without ice. Items you'll want to keep handy in your pocket or purse are Pepto-Bismol tablets, antacid tablets, facial tissues, and moist towelettes. Public restrooms and rural homes rarely provide toilet paper or soap. Due to the antiquated sewage systems, you should discard toilet paper in the nearby waste can, not the toilet bowl.
Vendor at the Church of Santo Domingo, Puebla, Mexico. Shopping Hours, Changing Money. Most family-owned shops are closed during the traditional lunch hour (2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m), but are open for business 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Many local stores and branch banks do not accept foreign travelers checks, U.S. dollars, or credit cards. Change money at the Mexico City International Airport, which offers the best exchange rates, or visit the central office of any bank in downtown Puebla (the currency exchange window), Monday through Friday, before 1:00 p.m. Ask for at least 100 pesos in small bills and coins. Taxis, buses, and smaller stores often refuse to change anything larger than a 20 peso bill.
Dining and Cuisine. Mole poblano, a chocolate-chile sauce poured over turkey or chicken, was invented here. It is Mexico's national dish. Other poblano specialties include: chiles en nogada, meat-stuffed green peppers covered with a walnut-pomegranate sauce; sweet-potato candies called camotes; and tacos arabes, spit-roasted, seasoned pork served in puffy wheat tortillas, a dish invented by Middle Eastern immigrants. Colonial-style poblano kitchen.

Historic District. Puebla's Historic District, El Centro Histórico, consists of about 100 blocks in the middle of the city, but the majority of historic sites lie within a four-block radius of El Zócalo, the central square. See the section below on Street Directions, and also Historic District Walking Tour.

Street Directions. Click to see Historic District Street Plan. Four major avenues radiate from the northwest corner of El Zocalo, Puebla's central square: Avenida Reforma (west); Avenida Maximino Avila Camacho (east, also known as Juan de Palafox Avenue); Avenida 5 de Mayo (north); and Avenida 16 de Septiembre (south). Streets running West or East (Poniente/Oriente) are even-numbered to the north of the Zócalo and odd-numbered to the south. Streets running North or South (Norte/Sur) are even-numbered to the east of the Zócalo and odd-numbered to the west.

Convention Center. Puebla's new Convention Center (Centro de Convenciones Puebla-William O. Jenkins) is an impressive combination of historic restoration and new architecture. It is worth a visit even if you are not attending an event there. Located on Héroes del 5 de Mayo Boulevard, between Avenida 4 Oriente and Avenida 10 Oriente, it is on the east side of the Historic District, just a few steps south of a landmark church, the Templo de San Francisco (Avenida 14 Oriente 1009). For more information, see the Convention Center Web site and the description in the Historic District Walking Tour.

Civic Center. El Centro Cívico 5 de Mayo, the Civic Center, is located 15 blocks northeast of the central square, on a steep hill overlooking city. It is best reached by bus, rather than on foot. The complex consists of eight facilities in an extensive public park: Museo de la No Intervención/Fuerte de Loreto, the No-Intervention Museum at the Loreto Fort; Museo de Anthropología, the Anthropology Museum; Fuerte de Guadalupe, the Guadalupe Fort; Expo Puebla, the State Fairgrounds and Exhibition Hall; El Planetario, the Planetarium; Museo de Historia Natural, the Natural History Museum; Plaza de Toros El Relicario, the Relicario Bullring; and Auditorio de la Reforma, the Reforma Auditorium.
China Poblana costumes, historic versus patriotic.La China Poblana. The "Puebla China Girl", La China Poblana, is synonymous with this city, but few poblanos knew her true life story. Catarina de San Juan (1609-1688), originally named Mirrha, was born in Delhi, India, and kidnaped at the age of nine by pirates. The captors sold her to a Portuguese merchant in Manila, who later shipped her to Miguel de Sosa, a poblano who had commissioned the merchant to send him "a little Chinese girl." Sosa and his wife adopted eleven year-old Mirrha in 1620 and baptized her Catarina. Upon the couple's death, Catarina married Domingo Suárez, the Chinese servant of the local parish priest. Seventeenth-century poblanos admired her acts of charity and copied her picturesque costume. Twentieth-century poblanos modified the costume to incorporate the colors and insignia of the Mexican flag. Puebla's monument to La China Poblana, an enormous statue atop a tiled fountain, is located in the northern end of the city at the junction of Boulevard Heroes del 5 de Mayo and Avenida Defensores de La Republica.
Getting to Puebla. From Mexico City International Airport, Estrella Roja buses depart for Puebla every half hour, with the last bus of the night leaving at 12:20 a.m. The fare was 150 pesos (= about US$ 15) in November 2005. From Mexico City's TAPO, the eastern bus terminal, fares are slightly lower and service is available almost 24 hours a day via Estrella Roja and ADO (Autobuses de Oriente) bus lines. Buses depart every five minutes from 6:00 a.m. to midnight. Express, non-stop service with guaranteed seating is available every 15 or 20 minutes. The departure time for your bus is printed on the ticket, and tickets are non-refundable. Travel time between Mexico City and Puebla by express bus is 1 hour and 50 minutes. Buses arrive at Puebla's main terminal, the Central de Autobuses Puebla (CAPU), in the northwest sector of the city. The Estrella Roja bus line also makes a stop further south (at 4 Poniente, near 11 Norte), which is closer to the Historic District.

Taxis and Buses in Puebla. At the CAPU bus terminal and elsewhere in the city, kiosks sell government-authorized taxi rides at flat rates to specific destinations. Pay the attendant at the kiosk for your ticket. Pay no money to the driver except for an appropriate tip (10% of the fare). A map at the kiosk tells you the fare zone for your destination. Public buses are plentiful and cheap (four pesos per trip in November 2005), but you should carry exact change. If you need to hail a taxi in the street, which is not recommended, use only marked cabs and negotiate the fare with the driver before accepting the ride. Always write down the taxi identification number for your protection.

Tourist Information Centers. The State of Puebla visitors center is one block south of the Zócalo, on 5 Oriente between 16 de Septiembre and 2 Sur. The City of Puebla visitors center is on the north side of the Zócalo in the Palacio Municipal (City Hall). Both centers provide basic guide maps at no charge.


Graphics Credits

  • Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Puebla, Mexico. © 2000 E.M. Mulhare.
  • Baroque angel, Rosary Chapel (1690), Church of Santo Domingo, Puebla, Mexico. © 2000 E.M. Mulhare.
  • Talavera-tile facade (detail, 1743-1767), Church of San Francisco, Puebla, Mexico. © 2000 E.M. Mulhare.
  • Vendor at the entrance of the Church of Santo Domingo, Puebla, Mexico. © 1989 E.M. Mulhare.
  • Colonial-style poblano kitchen. © 2000 E.M. Mulhare.
  • China Poblana costumes, historic versus patriotic. © 2000 E.M. Mulhare.

Information Sources

American Automobile Association. 2001. Mexico TravelBook. Heathrow, Florida.

Cordero y Torres, Enrique. 1979. Cultura Turística del Estado de Puebla. 2nd edition. Puebla, Mexico: Junta de Mejoramiento Moral, Cívico y Material del Municipio de Puebla.

Fernández G., Luis, ed. 1982. Diccionario Ilustrado y Enciclopedia Regional del Estado de Puebla. Mexico, D.F.: Fernández Editores.

de la Lama, Erendira. n.d. Puebla. (pamphlet). Puebla, Mexico: Alphagraphics.

INEGI, Instituto Nacional de Estadistíca, Geografía e Informática. 2000. XII Censo General de Poblaci
ón y Vivienda 2000: Resultados Preliminarios. Aguascalientes, Ags., Mexico: INEGI.

Nueva Guia, La
. 1997. La Gran Ciudad Colonial de Puebla: Plano Metropolitano. (map). Puebla, Mexico.

Publimedio. 1997. Una vuelta por Puebla. (pamphlet). Puebla, Mexico.


Visitors since 23-May-2004:

Copyright ©1998-2006 by E. M. Mulhare, Hamilton, NY 13346 USA. All rights reserved. All text, graphics and artwork are by the author unless otherwise noted. Published electronically in ixeh.net Travel Guides as Visitors Online Guide to the City of Puebla, Mexico. Original text, 04-Mar-1998. Web site created 03-Feb-2000. This page last modified 05-ene-2006.

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