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IXEH
NET |
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VISITORS ONLINE GUIDE
TO
TOTIMEHUACAN (Puebla,
Mexico)
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General Information. The historic
town of San Francisco Totimehuacán (pronounced TOH-TEE-MEH-WAH-KAHN)
is located in the State of Puebla, Mexico, 8 km south of the
City of Puebla on the Valsequillo Highway (Puebla Route 708,
also known as "Boulevard Valsequillo"). Totimehuacán
means "place of the people of the bird and the arrow"
in Nahuatl, the indigenous language of central Mexico. Do not
confuse it with "Teotihuacán", meaning "place
of the gods", the famous archeological site near Mexico
City. Totimehuacán, though less well known, was also a
precolumbian ceremonial center. Its pyramids are 2,700 years
old. |
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A century ago the townspeople wore distinctive native costumes,
spoke Nahuatl, and earned their living as corn farmers. Today
they wear store-bought clothes, speak Spanish, and work primarily
in industry, commerce and services. But many households continue
to grow corn or raise dairy cattle as a sideline. The community
combines a rural lifestyle with some urban amenities. The estimated
population of Totimehuacán in late 2000 was about 10,000. |
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Points of Interest. Located in the
center of town are the Zócalo (main plaza), the
Presidencia (town hall), and three colonial sanctuaries--the
Iglesia de San Francisco (parish church), the Ex-Convento
de San Francisco (16th-century Franciscan mission complex),
and the Antigua Capilla de San Juan. |
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Other historic sites, located farther from the town center, are
the colonial chapels of Santa Catarina, La (Virgen
de) Asunción, and San Miguel. All three remain
in use today. There is also the Nueva Capilla de San Juan
(under construction), and the modern chapels of the Virgen
de Guadalupe-Tlatelpa, Los Reyes, and Santa Clara.
For more information and a virtual tour, see The
Sanctuaries of Totimehuacán. |
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Just beyond the northern limits of the town are the Pirámides
del Tepalcayo (BC 700-AD 90), a complex of precolumbian pyramids
hidden under grass-covered hills. In the southwest corner of
Totimehuacán is El Chiquihuite, a small mountain
with breathtaking views of the Puebla Valley. Atop El Chiquihuite
is the Cristo Rey monument, an impressive statue of Christ
the King.. |
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Nearby Attractions. Africam
and Valsequillo Lake are a short drive further southeast
on the Valsequillo Highway. Africam is a 200-acre, safari-style
zoo where the animals roam free. Visitors, from the safety of
their cars, can watch and photograph more than 250 species from
Africa and elsewhere. Valsequillo Lake, while too polluted to
permit swimming or water sports, does feature beautiful scenery,
vacation homes, and lakeside restaurants. |
Street Directions and Map. Click
to
see Street Map. Few streets in Totimehuacán have
signs to orient the visitor. The zócalo (town plaza) is
located at the corner of Avenida Zaragoza and Valsequillo Highway.
Totimehuacanos give directions according to the distance from
the zócalo, the highway, and other local landmarks. Also,
"Arriba" ("up") refers to the blocks north
of the zócalo and "Abajo" (down) means the blocks
located to the south. |
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The Barrios. The community is organized
barrios, each with its own chapel, festival days, and more or
less fixed territorial boundaries. If one begins in the northwest
sector of the town and walks in clockwise order, the seven barrios
are: (1) San Juan, one km. west of the zócalo; (2) Santa
Catarina, directly north of the town hall; (3) Guadelupe-Tlatelpa,
one km. to the northeast; (4) La Asunción, south and east
of the zócalo; (5) Los Reyes, directly south of La Asunción
barrio; (6) San Miguel, south and west of the zócalo;
and (7) Santa Clara, west of San Miguel barrio, on the slopes
Chiquihuite mountain. |
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Mercado (Market). Totimehuacán
is famous for its homemade carnitas (fried pork), gorditas
(tortillas stuffed with various fillings), and other antojitos
(traditional snacks). In the past these dishes were served at
picnic tables in the the zócalo. In October 2001 the vendors
moved to the Mercado Municipal Lic. Mario Marín Torres,
the new municipal market located two blocks west of the zócalo,
along the Valsquillo Highway. Other traditional products sold
in the town center, particularly on Saturdays and Sundays, are
clay cooking pots, straw hats, muebles rústicos
(colonial-style wooden furniture), plastic toys, and potted plants.
An open-air tianguis (market) specializing in used clothing
operates in the patio of the Ex-Convento on Sundays. |
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Festival Days. Totimehuacanos
observe all the major feast days of the Roman Catholic Church.
They also celebrate the days listed below, at the locations indicated
in parentheses. Among the festivities are processions or parades,
pageants, public banquets and special worship services. A red
asterisk (*) indicates that there
are public entertainments on the following weekend, which can
include dances, concerts, and sports (boxing matches, soccer
games, rodeos, etc.).
- January 6, Los Santos Reyes--Three Kings Day (Barrio Los
Reyes). *
- February 2, La Virgen de la Candelaria--Virgin of Candlemass
(Barrio Sta. Catarina).
- Palm Sunday, Nuestro Señor de Los Ramos--Our Lord
of the Palms (Parish church
- Monday of Holy Week, El Señor Ecce Homo--Christ Sentenced
by Pilate (Barrio Sta. Catarina).
- Holy Week, Semana Santa--Processions and liturgical
observances remembering the Passion of Christ (Parish church
and some barrio chapels).
- First Sunday after Pentecost, La Santísima Trinidad--Holy
Trinity (Barrio San Miguel).
- Second Thursday after Pentecost, El Santísimo Sacramento-Corpus
Christi (Parish church).
- June 24, San Juan Bautista--St. John the Baptist (Barrio
San Juan). *
- July 25, Santiago Apóstol--St. James the Greater (Barrio
La Asunción).
- August 11-12, Santa Clara--St. Clare of Assisi (Barrio Santa
Clara). *
- August 15, La Virgen de la Asunción--Virgin of the
Assumption (Barrio La Asunción). *
- September 15-16, Fiesta Patria--Independence Day (Zócalo
).
- September 27, Santos Cosme y Damián--Sts. Cosmo and
Damian (Barrio San Miguel).
- September 29, San Miguel Arcángel--St. Michael the
Archangel (Barrio San Miguel). *
- October 4, San Francisco de Asis, Fiesta Patronal--St. Francis
of Assisi, Town Patron Saint's Day (Parish church). *
- Ten days beginning October 4, Feria Anual--Annual Town Fair
(Zócalo). *
- October 7, La Virgen del Rosario--Virgin of the Rosary (Barrio
San Juan).
- October 18, San Lucas--St. Luke (Barrio La Asunción).
- November 25, Santa Catarina--St. Catherine of Alexandria
(Barrio Sta. Catarina). *
- Last Sunday before Advent, Cristo Rey--Christ the King (procession
from the parish church to the barrios).
- December 12, La Virgen de Guadalupe--Virgin of Guadalupe
(Barrio Guadalupe-Tlatelpa, and Barrio La Asunción). * Weekend festivities in Barrio Guadalupe-Tlatelpa
only.
- December 13-January 5, Posadas, Acostadas del
Niño Dios and Levantadas del Niño Dios
--Christmas season festivities honoring the Child Jesus (Parish
church and barrio chapels).
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Getting There. Taxi Service.
At the main bus terminal, the Central de Autobuses Puebla (CAPU),
kiosks sell government-authorized taxi rides to Totimehuacán
for a flat rate. Pay the attendant at the kiosk for your ticket.
Pay no money to the driver except for an appropriate tip (10%
of the fare). The flat rate in November 2005 was 123 pesos. The
trip takes 30-45 minutes, depending on traffic. Note: Taxi tickets
often misspell the town name as "Teotimehuacan" and
ticket sellers sometimes know the town only as "San Francisco." |
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Authorized taxi-service kiosks can be found elsewhere in the
city of Puebla as well. If you need to hail a taxi in the street,
which is not recommended, use only marked cabs and negotiate
the fare with the driver before accepting the ride. Always write
down the taxi identification number for your protection |
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Driving Yourself. In the City of Puebla, take any road
that leads to Valsequillo Boulevard, for example, Calle 11 Sur
(South Eleventh Street) or the Periférico (Puebla Beltway).
Heading east, Valsequillo Boulevard becomes the Valsequillo Highway
and passes through the center of Totimehuacán. If starting
at the Central de Autobuses Puebla (CAPU bus terminal), the quickest
driving route is Boulevard Norte/Boulevard Atlixco, heading south.
At the Periférico turn left (east). At the Valsequillo
Highway turn right (east), then follow theValsequillo Highway
about two kilometers to to Totimehuacán. You will cross
a bridge over the Alseseca River shortly before arriving at the
town square, which will be on your right (south). |
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Public Bus. In the City of Puebla, take any bus marked
"Totimehuacán" or "San Francisco"
that is traveling south along Calle 15 Sur (South Fifteenth Street)
or Heroes 5 de Mayo Boulevard, or traveling east on Valsequillo
Boulevard. Most of the buses are "combis", that is,
Volkswagon mini-vans equipped to hold twelve passengers. The
bus fare in November 2005 was four pesos. |

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TO LEARN MORE
about this historic town, visit the Cyber
Portal. Topics include the precolumbian kingdom, colonial
and modern sanctuaries, religious art, and the "Day of the
Dead", all illustrated with photographs and drawings. |

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Graphics Credits
- Parish Church, San Francisco Totimehuacán,
Puebla, Mexico. © 1994 E.M. Mulhare.
- Ruins of the Ex-Convento de San Francisco,
16th-century Franciscan mision complex, San Francisco Totimehuacán,
Puebla, Mexico. © 1994 E.M. Mulhare.
- Precolumbian Pyramid (Tepalcayo No. 1), San
Francisco Totimehuacán, Puebla, Mexico. © 1992 E.M.
Mulhare.
- Valsequillo Lake, Puebla, Mexico. ©
2000 E.M. Mulhare.
- Christ the King monument, Chiquihuite mountain,
San Francisco Totimehuacán, Puebla, Mexico. © 1994
E.M. Mulhare.
- Mole poblano, San Francisco Totimehuacán,
Puebla, Mexico. © 1979 E.M. Mulhare.
- Colonial Arch of the Jaguar, San Francisco
Totimehuacán, Puebla, Mexico.
© 2000 E.M. Mulhare.
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Information Sources
Mulhare, Eileen
M. 1986. Occupation and Choice: The Women of Totimehuacán,
Mexico. Ph.D. Dissertation, University of Pittsburgh. Ann Arbor:
University Microfilms, Publication No. 8702017.
Mulhare, Eileen M.
1995. Totimehuacán: Su historia y vida actual. Prologue
by Herón García-Martínez. Colección
Catalejos, No. 3. Puebla, Mexico: Secretaría de Cultura
del Gobierno del Estado de Puebla.
Mulhare, Eileen M.
2001. Totimehuacán: Su historia y vida actual. 2nd edition,
revised and updated. Prologue by Herón García-Martínez.
Puebla, Mexico: H. Ayuntamiento del Municipio de Puebla, Programa
de Atención a la Cultural Popular. (More
about this book). |
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Visitors since 23-May-2004:
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Copyright ©1998, 2001-2006 by E. M. Mulhare,
Hamilton, NY 13346 USA. All rights
reserved. All text, graphics and artwork are by the author unless
otherwise noted. Published electronically as Visitors Guide
to Totimehuacán, Mexico. Original text, 04-Mar-1998.
Web site created 17-Feb-2000. This
page last modified 05-Jan-2006.
This Web site is a service of ixeh.net.
Report any problems to ixeh.net
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